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Old 11-07-2018, 10:58 AM   #21
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I am with the "no withdrawing of bids" group. That will break the auction. What kind of auction has ever let you withdraw a bid? When you blink, snort, wink, or raise your paddle, that is it, firm.
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Old 11-07-2018, 07:16 PM   #22
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I am with the "no withdrawing of bids" group. That will break the auction. What kind of auction has ever let you withdraw a bid? When you blink, snort, wink, or raise your paddle, that is it, firm.
To be clear, when I said "withdraw your bid," I meant withdraw your max bid. If I set a 1,000 PP max on an auction with a current bid of 501, I should be able to reduce my max to 501.
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Old 11-07-2018, 09:31 PM   #23
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To be clear, when I said "withdraw your bid," I meant withdraw your max bid. If I set a 1,000 PP max on an auction with a current bid of 501, I should be able to reduce my max to 501.
Which would completely negate the entire point of the Max Bid system in the first place....
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Old 11-08-2018, 05:07 AM   #24
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The option to withdraw a bid makes zero sense and will never be added, of course.
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Old 11-08-2018, 01:55 PM   #25
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Which would completely negate the entire point of the Max Bid system in the first place....
And this is one reason why I'm not a fan of the max bid system. I'd prefer to using a timer reset feature and bid as we go. That requires more of a time investment, though. PT is more hands-off than most games of this nature in that all the simulation happens automatically and nothing really needs to be managed (no injuries, expiring player contracts, etc.) so I can see why some would prefer a "set it and forget it" bid system.
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Old 11-08-2018, 02:14 PM   #26
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Make your best bid first and you don't need a timer reset.
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Old 11-08-2018, 02:32 PM   #27
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Make your best bid first and you don't need a timer reset.
Easy to say, but not very practical. No one knows what their "best bid" is. You have an idea of what you'd like to spend and you go from there. If you're willing to spend 2,000 PP on a particular card and the bidding goes to 2,001, you're almost certainly willing to go 2,002 if you have the resources.
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Old 11-08-2018, 02:53 PM   #28
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Then you should bid 2002.
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Old 11-08-2018, 03:00 PM   #29
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I've played a good amount of Madden Ultimate Team, which utilizes the Timer Reset function and set bid amounts, and I've actually gotten pretty decent at flipping cards for coins in that game.

But I hate the format. I have to sit on the auction screen, constantly watching the card I'm bidding on as it trudges up from 500 to 600 to 700 to 800... when I know ultimately it's going to end up being bought for somewhere in the 3000s. Then I'll get completely bored with it, so I'll go briefly browse through other cards... and come back a minute later and it's been sold for half the price I thought.

If I do sit there and wait it out, 9 times out of 10, I'll end up paying more for it than I should have. I'll be aiming for 2000, knowing I can probably sell it for 3000, but someone will bid 2100 and I'll think, "no, that's still fine, still a profit," and bid 2200. Then 2400. Finally I end up buying it for 2600 and realize I just spent five minutes on an auction that's going to earn me ~300 coins.

I don't want that in PT. It takes far too long to bid on even one card, and leads to a lot of impulse buying.

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Old 11-08-2018, 03:48 PM   #30
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Then you should bid 2002.
I think you may have missed the point.
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Old 11-08-2018, 03:50 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Fyrestorm3 View Post
I've played a good amount of Madden Ultimate Team, which utilizes the Timer Reset function and set bid amounts, and I've actually gotten pretty decent at flipping cards for coins in that game.

But I hate the format. I have to sit on the auction screen, constantly watching the card I'm bidding on as it trudges up from 500 to 600 to 700 to 800... when I know ultimately it's going to end up being bought for somewhere in the 3000s. Then I'll get completely bored with it, so I'll go briefly browse through other cards... and come back a minute later and it's been sold for half the price I thought.

If I do sit there and wait it out, 9 times out of 10, I'll end up paying more for it than I should have. I'll be aiming for 2000, knowing I can probably sell it for 3000, but someone will bid 2100 and I'll think, "no, that's still fine, still a profit," and bid 2200. Then 2400. Finally I end up buying it for 2600 and realize I just spent five minutes on an auction that's going to earn me ~300 coins.

I don't want that in PT. It takes far too long to bid on even one card, and leads to a lot of impulse buying.
If I'm selling you that card, then I definitely want that. If I'm running the game, then I definitely want that. The only person that doesn't want that is the buyer. Ultimately, the more PP that is spent, the healthier the game is (within reason).
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Old 11-08-2018, 03:52 PM   #32
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I think you may have missed the point.
No. You should bid the most that you are willing to pay the first time. Then you either win or lose. Simple and no need to babysit.
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Old 11-08-2018, 03:52 PM   #33
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If I'm selling you that card, then I definitely want that. If I'm running the game, then I definitely want that. The only person that doesn't want that is the buyer. Ultimately, the more PP that is spent, the healthier the game is (within reason).
True, for my second point anyway. I still don't want to sit on the auction screen for minutes at a time, in a war of attrition with someone else over a single card.
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